Recently, I had the opportunity to sample a couple of coffees by
upstart indie roaster,
Peter Asher Coffees. I pulled some shots of their
Northern Italian Espresso blend.
My first impression was the lightness of the roast. Compared with the darkness of the roast currently in the hopper,
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| Northern Italian on right |
|
Peter Asher
shows off an indication of its roasting philosophy. Clearly there is an attempt here to find the peak roast for
the bean, rather than going for a dark smoky flavor. The second thing to strike my attention was the crema. Holy
crap there was a lot! High holy
crema made up nearly all of the double shot by the end of the extraction. The flavor of the shot was pretty true
to its name. It has a bright
quality, perhaps a bit sweeter and less dry than its Italian counterpart. Care has to be taken not to
under-extract this shot; its sharpness is a bit offensive if the shot is sour.
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| Compare the shape of the flavor profile to this one I sketched of Illy Espresso in Europe |
I also pulled a shot of their
Black Velvet Blend. This was a very dark roast with a lot
of oil to give luster to the bean.
It was strong in the mid and low tones with a bit of tart.
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| Black Velvet as espresso extraction |
It makes a
decent espresso, but how is it as a drip coffee?
In drip form the Black Velvet blend really shines. The sharp
peak mellows to a caramel drizzle. The mouth-feel and body are satisfying,
supporting the deep richness of the smoky dark roast. The dark roast does not,
however, eliminate all the distinctiveness of these beans. The tart experienced
in the espresso extraction becomes a playful dance on the tongue in the brewed
form, and the mid-tones still possess a woody quality. This cup tastes like fun: rich,
satisfying and yet playful. There
is a definite nostalgia that is evoked in me by this flavor. It tastes like an emotion—happiness. I have tasted this quality before. In
fact I am reminded of a good peaberry Harar.
