Dossier of a coffee spy: Chicago

While on sabbatical, I made it a point to sample all the espresso at as many shops as I could.  My many trips to Metropolis Coffee earned me the moniker Coffee Spy by the staff there. Here are my findings

In the many shops I tried in Chicago, I only found three different espresso blends: Metropolis “Red Line,” Intelligencia “Black Cat” and a blend by Coffee and Tea Exchange, a Chicago company.

A pour-over at Metropolis

Metropolis

Metropolis Coffee was perhaps the most impressive shop I visited.  Metropolis’ roasting operation extends to many shops and retail locations.  Yet Metropolis has but one location, fiercely committed to the Edgewater neighborhood, without the common aspirations to franchise. Their commitment to detail makes me as happy as a giddy Quixote gazing on his peerless Dulcinea.  I so enjoyed my experiences here, I returned many times in spite of there being so many coffee shops and so little time. Whether it’s starting an iced coffee with a bit of velvety steamed milk, or putting five minutes of attention into a pour over drip coffee, it is the preparation excellence that makes this shop shine. Their Red Line espresso, named after the train line that takes Edgewater downtown, is intensely mid-toned, chocolaty and resinous with bright tart sparkles in the end. I think modern day vampires might also find this exquisite espresso a nice substitute, as it reminds me a little of the sanguineous flavor for which they so pine.

New Wave Coffee

New Wave Coffee

While at the Milwaukee Ave arts festival, I went to this shop a couple times.  They served Metropolis espresso in a festive and artsy atmosphere so appropriate to the neighborhood.  The hipster vibe was pleasant and their treatment of Metropolis’ offerings was nicely done. 

On afternoon a walk down Clark Street brought me to a couple more coffee shops, Koppi and Coffee Studio.

Koppi a Traveler’s Café

Walking in this shop transported me some mid-oriental market place. In the front windows were low tables with cushions to recline by. They focused on their world food offerings and their espresso from Coffee and Tea exchange was on the upper end of adequate. The atmosphere was so killer there, however, that I can see why it is an area favorite.

Coffee Studio

Back up Clark toward Edgewater I found Coffee Studio. They were serving Intelli’s Black Cat espresso.  I had a friendly conversation with the barista about my espresso experiences so far in Chicago.  We both agreed that the Black Cat was strangely mellow that day.  Black Cat has a deep low end and usually has a tobacco smokiness.

Today that earthy quality was muted.  We could only speculate that it was because of the extraordinary humidity that Chicago was subjected to during that heat wave. The atmosphere was more refined here than most of the other shops I visited.  Clean lines and modern finishes gave it an upwardly mobile feel.

Caffe Streets

My doppio and cortado at Caffe Streets

On our way home from Minnesota, I was able to hit one of the many shops I missed during our stay.  I chose to go to Caffe Streets, which is the progeny of Barista Champion Mike Philips. This is the most refined coffee shop I have ever visited. Rich woods are layered on every surface from the counters to the ceiling. They serve Black Cat along with one or two single origin coffees as espresso every day. I sampled the El Salvadoran Santa Anna from Handsome Roasters as a single origin espresso.  While lacking the roundness of a blend, it held up quite well to the extraction. It produced a tart flavor in the mid to treble range. I also tried the Black Cat in a cortado.  The Cortado is a Chicago standard that I haven’t run across elsewhere.  It is about half espresso and half steamed milk (espresso cut with milk or a very short and strong latte).  Caffe Streets uses a local low-temperature-pasteurized milk steamed into a velvety micro-foam that melds exquisitely with Black Cat’s harsh sweetness.  It is served in a short breakfast tumbler with beautifully wrought latte art.

Caffe Streets bar with drip tower

A specialty I didn’t have time to try, the Neat, is a cold slow drip iced coffee produced in a tower of beakers and tubes the sight of which geeked my poor heart out.

Next time I’m in Chicago I need to remember to try Wormwhole (the home of Mocha Puffs), Chava, and Ipsento.  Have any others I need to try?  Leave a comment.

I can't sleep

Tonight I enter into the Paschal Mystery as I once again mourn the death of a dream, as the steampunk incarnation of Live Wired Coffeehouse which was to be at The Whistle Stop appears to be laid to rest.  Jesus Christ, draw me close to you in the fellowship of our sufferings and give me the strength to dream another dream.

Where do I begin?

Campolo and Bono do a great job expressing eloquently the social imperative the follower of Christ faces.  They resonate with me, much like the emotional growl of a great jazz singer or the funky bass of a hardcore band, they pound my chest with vibration.  After listening to a message by Campolo in the car on our way to Pizza Hut, I told my wife "I am converted all over again."

What to do then?  I cheer on Bono, calling on America to increase aid to poor countries by just %1 of the federal budget. I want to dive into the One campaign and see this through. But what authority have I?  How have I sacrificed (Campolo, Power and Authority)?

One place I can begin to implement justice ideas is in crafting the DNA of the coffeehouse that we are starting. We have written into our mission statement that "Live Wired Coffeehouse is committed to engaging in the local economy, doing business with organizations that show care and concern for people and the environment at all levels of production. We are committed to using best practices in business to value people and protect the environment." I warned the students on the board of the coffeehouse that this commitment will have far reaching implications in the way we do business. This will mean searching out the companies and suppliers to do business with who have strong ethical and compassionate practices. This will mean paying our workers what they are worth, and paying more for coffee that is harvested in sustainable ways and where the harvesters are being paid a living wage. I am happy about starting with these values, and look forward to educating our employees and patrons as to their importance.

relinquishment

Today didn't start off too well, except of course that it is our Anniversary! My beautiful wife of, now, eight years was an anchor to my soul through my trials and tribulations.

I arrived at the coffeehouse today to prepare for the Rotary Club coming over to see the place and have lunch and coffee. When I came in, Mary, the building's owner had rearranged all the furniture. She had all her stuff on the main floor and relegated mine to the stage. I felt betrayed after the last couple days of discussion with her had not prepared me for this, in fact she said she liked what we had done. I was angry and disappointed, a feeling that hung like sorrow in my throat all day - a day I was supposed to be celebrating!

My vastly romantic plans was to take Elaine to the Taize service in Saginaw. Well, it was out, and it was free, so Elaine agreed. One drawback to the evening was that we found no sitter. The kids held up admirably but still, not romantic. The service, however, was the cure I needed. God was gracious to me and extremely romantic. Wave after wave of his presence came over me. I couldn't help but tremble, then sheepishly look around to see if anyone had noticed my unseemly convusion. Elaine even asked me pointedly "What are you doing?!" What could I say? It wasn't I who was doing anything. It was like the Holy Spirit was tickling me. It was a great time with a great God, great friends, and the best wife ever.

Thanks God for all that, especially Elaine!

Adventures with Jesus in distressing disguise

Yesterday morning proved to be quite an adventure. I was heading to Farmington Hills for a Meeting at the district office. As I came to the one stop light in Sebewaing, I spotted a man holding a cardboard sign with a back pack and paper bag full of clothes on the icy ground next to him. This was, of course, Jesus, though he insisted on being called Kevin. He was a nice talkative fellow, with a closely trimmed beard, a knit hat and rosy sunglasses ready for a ski slope. His sign indicated that he needed a lift to Bay City. I could certainly take him there. He threw his things in the sliding van door and climbed in the passenger side.

He told me his Mom had committed suicide only half a year ago right in front of his eyes and he was still working that out, but his faith was getting him through. His faith helped him out on the road. He figured he'd make it to Bay City alright by the time his bus left. For my part I enjoyed the company (I always love hanging out with Jesus), and felt better about consuming the gassoline to get to bay city for two people rather than one.

When we got into town I took him to Brewtopia. His bus didn't leave until four, so he planed to meander around down town until then. He offered to buy me a drink. "Or," I said, "I could buy you a drink." After all how often do I get a chance to get Jesus a cup of coffee?

That done, we went back out to the van. He went to get his stuff out of the van, and I armed with a short quadshot americano was about to head on my way to my meeting when another man got my attention. Oddly enough this was Jesus too.

He had been talking to the other Jesus - Kevin asking him for some money to get a cup of coffee. Jesus-Kevin told him that he was Jesus too (that he was also in a position of need and that I had bought his cup.) So this new Jesus, his hood drawn tightly around his weathered face, saliva flecked on his lips and coating his teeth asked me for some change. He explained that he had only 29 cents and needed just a little more to get a cup of coffee. I reached in and turned the van back off. "Come on in with me and I'll buy you a cup," I said cheerfully.

"I am having such a fun morning," I told Aaron as he rang me up for Second Jesus' coffee.
"You're being altruistic today," he replied. "And you even get him the premium stuff!"
Of course! What else would I get for my friend Jesus. I love to share the best with my friends. It is a dream of mine, if I ever have the opportunity to find Jesus in the poor working the coffee harvests, to make them the best of the coffee they have produced. They should enjoy it, rather than the café con sangre they are allowed now. Jesus is worth the best!

What would Michigan style espresso look like?

That is an interesting question. What flavor profiles do you associate with other regions of the US? I have heard the NW has its distinct profile that is brighter than most of what I really get into. I usually imagine the flavor profiles of espresso like an equalizer on my stereo. The bass tones of the deep body and the bright treble of the acidity create a picture with curves like the equalizer knobs.

For instance, the espresso I currently use in my shop is CBI's Panache Espresso Marrakesh. It looks like this:

When traveling in the mid west I discovered a flavor profile that was new to me. I had intense midtones that offered sweetness to the milk drinks, but were a bit too sweet for my ideal straight shot. This is what that looked like:

Some times that profile has a brightness playing on the high end (the blue line). I don't know if that profile is indicative of the midwest (I had it in two shops in Nebraska) or if it is a style borrowed from somewhere else.
As I thought about a flavor profile that would capture the terroir of Michigan, I thought that it would have to have the brightness of a cold winter morning, the growl of industrial machinery and the sweetness of Motown. As I visualized the shape that would make it seemed ironically appropriate:

Goodbye Blue Monday review ****

Today I have the privilege to come home to Goodbye Blue Monday coffee and tea. I grew up in Northfield, but Blue Monday didn’t become my home until I went away to college and needed the place of refuge and good coffee. There is a difference today though. In keeping with my recent tradition of reviewing coffee shops as I travel, I come into Blue Monday looking not to simply feed my need for the comfortable and familiar. Today I wish to experience Blue Monday for what it has to offer.

For the first time I sampled Monday’s bright and yet full bodied espresso in all its naked splendor, before following it up with my favorite Americano. The espresso is very palatable, not as deep and rumbly as I long for, but it finishes well, very clean. The staff at the Blue Monday is tight lipped about the intimate fifteen-year relationship they have with their unnamed roaster.

It is the décor that to me represents the quintessential bohemian coffee culture. It has developed an eclectic mix of industrial, with galvanized steel on the walls and ceilings contrasted against smooth darkly stained wood. The walls sport collegiate pop art, while the lamps bring an oriental flair with hand made shades. The furniture channels fifties mod and is very comfortable.

The menu is straightforward: coffee done right, smooth espresso, a huge selection of exceptional loose-leaf teas. There is no need for latte art or signature drinks to attract people, just the excellence of the bean.

Bjava Coffee and Tea

In an unassuming corner of an Indianapolis strip mall, across the parking lot from a Starbucks, Bjava Coffee and Tea makes its home. Its greatness does not rest in chic environs or bohemian atmosphere, but in the passionate quality of its drinks.

I came away from my time spent with owner B. J. Davis and Indy.com’s top barista, Andy Gillman with a new respect for the signature drink. Their traditional cappuccinos start with a double shot of espresso (roasted by PT’s coffee company). The shot has a smooth body with ample deep rust colored crema and the brightness of sunshine on my tongue. Add to that a balanced velvety microfoam of milk to fill a 6oz cup. The real magic lies in the flavors of these culinary masterpieces. I was so taken by the selection of signature traditional cappuccinos, that I had to try two.

The Honey Lavender Cappuccino:
This is Andy Gillman’s signature drink. “I made a syrup from lavender buds,” he said, “and added a dash of honey that comes from [local farm], JTs bees. The honey is terrific, packed with floral flavors that build on the lavender and draw it across the tongue.” This drink blew me away. Now, I am not much for flavored coffee drinks, but this drink opened my eyes to new horizons. It lacked the overt sweetness of a drink made with flavor syrups. It was more of an epicurean creation, the antithesis of a froofy dessert coffee streamlined for mass consumption.

The Shagadellic Shooter:
This cappuccino takes its root from the heart of Indiana lore. There is a 200-year-old local recipe for Shagbark Hickory Syrup that is made at a local cottage business. This uniquely local flavor is paired exquisitely with cardamom, which is freshly cracked onto the foam.

The true genius of Bjava is in the creative efforts of B. J. Davis and her staff. It is the kind of shop that deserves its loyal customers and the buzz of the Indianapolis cognoscenti.

The Abbey Coffeehouse

An almost incense like Mediterranean spice scent stuck my nose as I entered. There was potential that my visit to the Abbey Coffeehouse could have been a spiritual experience. The counter, the lights, and a few pews looked salvaged from a cathedral. A second look showed how worn the place was. The imitation tinning was falling from the ceiling in places giving the painted clouds a melancholy tone. The decay also showed behind the bar. The vintage Astoria espresso machine (in operation at the Abbey for 10 years) looked like it could either pull a sweet vintage shot or shake apart in the attempt. On the wall were numerous certificates awarding the Abbey best Coffeehouse awards from various magazines, the most recent I saw being 2005. This was became the biggest symbol of decay to me as I sampled the espresso. The barista pulled the doser lever twice into the bottom of a single shot basket. I couldn't even see anything in there when he proceeded to tamp it with the attachment on the grinder. He pulled the resulting four-ounce shot into a chipped 12 ounce mug. There was but a trace of pallid crema on the surface of this obviously over extracted tincture. I drank a respectable amount and then opted for the house blend. It was strangely spicy with an all too bright and demure finish, the shop’s whole atmosphere (the incense quality as well as the decay) in the cup.

Abbey Coffeehouse - Indianapolis, IN, 46204-1130